The following questions were received in 2011.
From: S.P. UK
Q: hi,i would just like to say thank you for the time and effort that you put into your site.i run a 2002 none abs pan with 29000 on the clock and she walked the mot yesterday.iam 60yrs old and came back into biking 2 yrs ago and i have not regreted a single day on the pan. i travel 24mls a day for work weather permiting.i always service the bike myself as the pan's arn't to difficult to work on. i have fitted a stainless exhaust system and i have had to clean up the swinging arm and the usual pads,fluids and filters.me and the wife toured cornwall last year fully loaded with no trouble what so ever in fact the old girl pulls like a train and leaves some of the young lads blinking a bit.keep up the good work.
A: Delighted to hear from you - glad you like the site, and many thanks for your kind words!
Yes, I think the Pan is an ideal bike to be owner-maintained - it's as modern as I intend to get. All this new-fangled electronic stuff and computer-controlled whatnots are not for me!
Unfortunately my Mrs doesn't like to be on the bike for long periods of time - she fidgets!
From: C.F., USA
Q: I just spent $1700 on my 21yo 91 ST1100. The clutch and clutch cylinders needed replacement. I was told the carburators were dirty with varnish and had the rebuilt and tuned as well. I sometimes store the bike for extended periods and have never drained the tank. I have changed the fuel filter and use the highest octane available.
I have been haveing problems with fuel supply. At high speeds the engine starves for gas. By backing off and allowing the vacuum to draw fuel I can keep going. At times it will not and I must pull over for a few seconds. It dosent happen as often with a full tank, but it does happen often when the fuel level is low.
What should I do next? How do I clean the inside of the tank.
A: I'll start off by saying I'm not an expert on fuel starvation problems, but it sounds like it could either be a partially-blocked fuel line, or your fuel quality.
I've read that in the US, ethanol is mixed with the fuel (regardless of octane rating) to varying degrees, depending on which State you're in. Ethanol can cause gummy deposits in the carbs (as you described). It may not be the ethanol itself that causes this, but the stuff that is added to stabilize the ethanol.
Ethanol is also more hydrophilic than fuel (in other words it absorbs water - not a good thing), and is more volatile. I do know it can result in poorer fuel consumption.
Other problems traced to ethanol-blended fuel include vapour locks, fuel starvation, and poor hot starting. You can read more about this here.
http://pure-gas.org/ will show you a list of stations in the US which sell pure petrol (gas).
So before you start dismantling your bike to remove the fuel tank (that's the only way you'll be able to properly clean it), I would suggest you register (it's free) with the US-based STOC (ST owners' club).
Although they're geared more towards the ST1300 there are still a few ST1100 owners on there, and the majority of them are in the US.
Ask about this issue in the ST1100 tech section - perhaps another US rider has also had this issue and may be able to recommend a solution.
From: T.R., UK
Q: The top bush in my rear shock is on it's way out - about .050" play at the moment. Otherwise the shock looks OK.
The bush doesn't look like a replaceable part on honda parts lists.
I don't really want to replace the whole shock just because the bush has gone.
Do you know of a fix ?
The bike is a ST1100AR (ABS)
A: On the parts diagram for the ST1100AR the bush is shown as part number 52453-MT3-611.
I agree it would seem a bit of overkill to replace the entire shock just for that.
Personally if I was unable to obtain a replacement bush I would be tempted to just fabricate one from some appropriate tubing.
From: R.M., UK
Q: Hi, im just about to purchase my firt pan. Ive been riding for about 23 years and have a few bikes. Ive owned several ZZr1100s, i rode a pan several years ago and loved it so now im in my mid life era i think its time to make the change. Im a AMI rider and ive listened to loads of people telling me its one of the best all rounders money can buy, so the ZZr is off tommorow and i pick up my pan about ten....Ill keep in touch to let you know how it pans out.
A: That's excellent news! I'm sure you won't regret it.
Perhaps you'd like to add a photo to the Gallery once you have it!
From: B.M., New Zealand
Q: Hi ,I am trying to find latches for my 95 ST1100. I bought it about 8 months ago and the Honda topbox (accessary with handa wing emblem)latches are falling apart.
Thay are the type that has a key lock.Unfortunatly i am having major trouble trying to find matching latches here in NZ.I have been to multiple honda shops and although i have had fantastic efforts from them,thay all come up empty.
Any chance you may have ideas?the latches are smaller than the pannier latches.
A: I've heard of this problem before with a Hondaline Top Box here in the UK. Honda suggested replacement locks from Hepco & Becker (I think it's very strange that they don't have these as Honda part numbers).
There are two types of lock applicable, depending on the top box size, available from Motobins.
Have a look at part number 94565 which is supplied with nuts and bolts (although you can of course use pop rivets instead).
Each latch comes with a key and I believe it is possible they can be ordered identical.
To remove the old locking latches:
Use something like a dremel tool and cut off the back of the pop rivets inside the topbox next to the washers. Then pull the lock off from the outside by sliding a small screwdriver between the lock and case and lever gently. Or you could use a centre punch and hammer, and tap the rivets through from the inside. The washers may be stuck to the inside of the box but these should come off easily enough. (You could also drill off the head of the pop rivet and remove the latch.)
Installing the new latch:
The new latches have the mounting holes aligned slightly differently, being horizontal, so a new hole will need to be drilled.
Install the bolt (or pop rivet) in the right-hand hole, ensuring you use a washer at the rear (on the inside of the box), then drill the left-hand side hole and install the other bolt (or pop rivet).
Repeat with the other lock. Some silicone sealer can be applied to the old unused rivet hole if required.
From: J.N., UK
Q: Hello. I have been reading your procedure on carb syncing for the ST1100. Mine is a 1998 model. I've read a number of procedures on the internet including the procedure described in the Clymer manual I have but your procedure is the only one that suggests a different application for the two screws between carbs 1 & 3. In Clymer, as in all the other procedures, the forward most screw is for carb #1 and rear screw is for carb #3. However your procedure states the rear screw is to balance the right carb bank with the left after the forward screw has been adjusted to sync carb #1 & 3. I guess I shall find out myself soon enough as I am planning to do this job over this coming weekend but I would be interested to hear back from you with your thoughts on the subject.
A: Thanks for your message.
I've done the carb synch several times on my Pan now - the procedure was originally described in the Haynes manual.
I think the Clymer may have it slightly wrong; if, as it states, the front screw is for carb 1 and the rear screw is for carb 3, why are there not two screws on the left-hand side for carbs 2 and 4?!
Of course it's possible that the Haynes is the incorrect one - but as long as the carbs are all showing similar readings, that's the important thing!
Just take your time - turn each screw 1/4 of a turn at a time. Once you've done it once, you'll find it much easier the next time.
Later edit: the procedure in the Haynes manual turned out to be the incorrect one; the Clymer manual had it right. The procedure has now been updated on the Carburettor balancing page.
From: A.K., UK
Q: I am looking for some advice with my Pan St 1100. I Had to slave start the bike the other day due to flat battery having been sat since November. Everything is running okay but the ABS/TCS warning light is on. I have had the bike to the Honda dealers where it was out on the computer which showed no fault. However the fact that the ABS warning light is on means that the ABS/TCS is not functioning. Iwas wondering if you have or know of anybody that has experianced this before and if so what the error may be. The only other option i have is to let the Honda dealer sterip it down and maybe find the fault at an avaerage cost of £1500. HEEEEELLLP
A: As the Honda dealer didn't find a fault, I suspect the cause of the warning light could well be your flat battery.
The ABS system is apparently quite sensitive to voltage variations. I would suggest removing the battery from the bike and cleaning the terminals and connectors (a poor earth cable connection is the cause of most electrical problems). Then before reinstalling the battery, try pulling the electrical connectors off the front and rear modulators and clean them up (a squirt or two of WD-40 normally does the trick).
The front ABS pump/modulator is on the upper right side just behind the headlight. Most of the fairing plastics from the fuel tank cover forward has to come off in order to access the pump, relays, and ECU for the ABS (you can leave the two lower fairing pieces - with the tip over guards - in place). The ABS ECU along with the 3 front ABS relays are on the upper left front opposite the front pump.
It may be worth considering getting a battery tender in future if the bike is going to be unused for a while. The Optimate is a good one.
Hopefully the problem is just a poor electrical connection, otherwise I'm afraid it looks like your only other option is to give the Honda dealer a lot of cash!
From: P.P., Argentina
Q: hello, im for argentine, i need the MANUAL HONDA ST-1100 HAYNES IN PDF, thank for your time, yo tengo una honda st-1100 abs tcs modelo 1993 roja, estoy muy contento , tengo varios manuales pero no puedo bajar de internet el haynes , el cual tiene datos ilustrativos y varias fotos, de ser posible me gustaría saber si conoces algún link para bajarlo al libro en pdf, gracias por tu tiempo, cordialmente
A: Gracias por tu mensaje.
Lo siento, pero no sé de un vínculo válido para descargar el manual Haynes en formato pdf. Hasta donde yo sé, el manual Haynes no está disponible en cualquier parte en formato pdf.
Creo que su única opción es comprar la versión del libro.
Un cordial saludo
From: R.C., USA
Q: I am trying to find cold air hoses that feed the carbs. on the 1995 ST1100. I have one on the right side but not one on the left side. Do you have any info on where I can buy one for the left side? Honda parts nation does not show anything like them. I am stuck! Thank you.
A: I think you're referring to parts 25 and 26 on this diagram. Models up to and including the 1994 model (which this diagram is for) had intakes on both sides; from 1995 onwards only the right-hand one was provided.
IF this is the part you're looking for, the Honda part number is 64280-MT3-000 (both left and right are identical).
You could have a look at CycleParts (US-based, they do mail order) for prices - looks to be around $40 - if they don't have stock you could have a look at CMSNL (based in Holland - so don't know if the costs of postage would be worthwhile).
Or - now that you have the part number (and assuming that it IS number 25/26 on the diagram) - you could try your local Honda dealer...
From: T.P., UK
Q: Have just had a look through your site and found it very good thank you for taking the time to make it as a pan clan member I will pass on the site address to all.
A: Thanks very much, glad you find it useful.
From: L.L., Ireland
Q: im looking for an left stanchion for the ST a used one. as mine has some rust on it. i left the bike in to get the seals done.. the lad tryed to clean the stanchion down. but to no avale. any chance you would know where to get one over there. no look here at all. i have even put an ad on the net. one fellow wanted £100 str just for the left one. i thought that was a bit over the top.anyways i have the bike in storage for the winter. just as well as i dont like to use it while its leaking fork oil.
A: How serious is the rust, would be my first question. I suppose if it's leaking fork oil then it must be quite pitted.
That £100 you were quoted is a reasonable-ish price I suppose (as long as the fork tube is in good condition of course). Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but parts are expensive!
So. The part number you need (just for the left fork tube, the shiny one which connects the handlebar to the lower bit) is 51510-MY3-781.
Your options are :
1. To keep an eye on Ebay
2. See if there are any scrapyards which have wrecked ST1100's near you
3. Buy it online - at least you now have the part number
4. Local Honda dealership (ouch)
5. See if you can get your £100 quote reduced a bit!
Personally I would add a 6th option - fix the old part - depending on how bad it is.
As the bike is laid up for the winter, I would remove the tube, remove the rust with a wire brush, then mix up some epoxy resin and smooth that over the pitting left by the rust. Then once it's dried, I'd take some very fine sandpaper - the type used with water, possibly around a 1500 grit - and carefully sand the resin smooth, being careful not to scratch the existing (good) surface of the tube.
The end result should be a smooth surface all over, smooth enough not to leak. Of course you'd be able to see where the epoxy is, but as the fork tube is fairly hidden anyway I don't think this would matter.
It depends whether you think all the above work would be worth saving £100 (minus cost of epoxy, sandpaper, wire brush....)
From: P.M., UK
Q: looking for tank bag cover for a pan european st 1100 year 1994 -5 colour dark blue
A: Were you after a tank bag? You can get one here.
Or you could also have a look at GetGeared as they also stock motorcycle luggage.
Or perhaps you were looking for a cover for the tank? Try Baglux.
From: D.C., UK
Q: I have just found your web site, thank you, it is informative and entertaining.
I have a 1991 ST with 50k miles showing, it might be a USA model as the lights need to be on to enable the ignition.
EXHAUST: Mine went the usual way and i fitted one from Sandy Bike Spares. The complete system was about £450. The chap makes them himself and look very similar to the standard items except they are stainless. The collector/downpipe design is slightlydifferent to the one you show but it fits well, as do all the heat shields. It is pupplies with all gaskets and clamps. They also supply brake discs for the bike at a stupidly low price. I will let you knowabout their quality as i plan to replace all 3 of mine this winter.
WIND: I did notice any mention of the mirror wind deflectors, they are fabulous (too good in the summer though!).
A: Glad you like the site!
Yes the "Lights always on" is a North American requirement. You could of course modify it but personally I wouldn't bother. (My Yamaha XJ600S didn't even have a light switch, just a dim/dip!)
I think the exhaust issue must have been a cost-saving measure by Honda. If they had only gone stainless throughout it would have saved a lot of people some dosh. I'd never heard of Sandy Bike Spares - but mind you it's not like I visit Bedfordshire much! According to their website they don't do s/s exhausts for the ST1100 so I think they need to update their website.
As for the wind deflectors, I intend to put up a page about these, but as I've got the Police strobe light brackets fitted I don't think they'd fit on my ST1100.
From: S.S., Hungary
Q: I am planning to buy a used Pan European. Found one exported from Switzerland, but it is 72 HP which is not enough for me. Do you know if it can be easily modified to deliver 100 HP? The pan european in switzerland are reduced to 72 hp due noise and emission restrictions. Is this a substantial mod, like the camshaft or just a simple intake reduction? I guess it is the camshaft.
A: The ST1100 is able to produce 100HP (75kW) at 7,500 rpm. But you obviously don't want to be running the engine at 7,500 rpm all the time.
It depends on what has been done to the bike. Power can be restricted by partially blocking the carburettors, installing a modified ECU (unlikely as the Pan doesn't have one of these), adjusting the throttle stop, modifying the exhausts, or - as you pointed out - fitting a different camshaft.
Trying to diagnose which of these has been done is going to be tricky. Probably the best thing would be to try and contact a Honda dealer in Switzerland (seeing as they would have sold the bike in the first place they should know what is normally done to the bikes to restrict them).
From: L., UK
Last Name: not needed, you should make this an optional field
E-mail Address: x@xxxxxx
Web Site URL: xxxxxxx
Street Address: Street and country are not needed as compulsory fields. The more compulsory things you have on your contact form the LESS likely people are to complete it
Country: United Kingdom
I had a look at your site and you've clearly done lots of work :-)
My only comment would be that the background that you have on all your pages makes the text very hard to read. I personally found it very annoying having the text scroll over the background. If you have the background, maybe consider having it fixed so that it doesn't appear to move under the text. For someone with low vision it would make the sight hard to read.
We used to ride a motorbike when we were first married, my husband didn't drive a car until we'd been married for about 8 years because he preferred the freedom of a motorbike.
We used to have a lot of fun, and like you we carried a lot of stuff around, I was always the pillion passenger, so I got to hold everything.
A: Thanks for your comments. I have since changed the background image, fading it out a bit. You're probably right in that the surname shouldn't be compulsory so I'll look into that.
However, I get a lot of submissions like "I want to buy a new <insert engine part name here>, where can I get one?"
This is the reason for asking for the street address and country. Even if the address provided is not specific e.g. "Highway 51, United States", I can at least recommend a possible local option.
From: D.H., UK
Q: Thanks for an informative web site, I wonder if you could help me with a stupid question. I have a 2002 ST1100 ABS/CBS/TC and the rear brake pads require replacing, being an ex car mechanic I thought no prob. I puchased a Haynes manual to give me the basic instructions, no prob. It says unscrew pin plug, no prob, then unscrew brake pin, PROBLEM, the pin has no slot, hex head or any means of unscrewing. Question - is the pin a drift fit through the caliper and pads on my model, if so which way is out, towards the pin plug or away? I have check the front pin and that is the same. Please help.
A: From your description it would appear that the previous owner (or the workshop where it was taken for a service) could have done a bit of a bodge.
The pad pin plug is just a slotted flat disc, as you've discovered. Under that, the pad pin itself is basically an elongated bolt, with the threaded bit extending for about an inch below the head (the rest of the body has no thread). It has a hex recess head. It is definitely not a drift fit through the caliper and pads. All ST1100 models have the same setup whether they're ABS or not; but on the ABS models the pad springs are different (and there are 3 brake pistons instead of 2).
The pad retaining pin SHOULD have a hex head and just unscrew. I wonder whether the previous owner/workshop somehow stripped the threads and replaced it with something else? Either that or the calipers were taken from a different bike?
In any event, to change the pads, you'll need to remove the pin. As an ex-mechanic, do you have a bolt extractor set (usually with a left-hand drill bit)?
What I would do first is tap the back of the retaining pin to see if they have installed a drift fit pin instead of the proper bolt (the "way out" is towards the pad pin.) Failing that, I'd use the left-hand thread drill bit and drill a hole in the pad retaining pin. Hopefully the heat from the drill bit will cause the pad retaining pin to start unscrewing - but if not the bolt extractor will need to be used. Once the pin is out you should then be able to see what they've done.
But hopefully your pad retaining pins DO have a hex recess and they're just hidden with grease and dirt!
(This turned out to be the case)
From: J.G., UK
Q: Hi I have had a look around your Pan website and agree with what you say about the ST1100 I have owned quite a few and rode all over Europe many times with my wife( who is reg blind and loves bikes)in all the miles we rode the Pans the only problem we encountered was a loose bearing in the rear hub which was easily fixed. I may also add I have owned or ridden most machines on the road including the new Pan 1300 Yamaha FJR 1300 and none do the job of touring quite like a Pan,that is the reason at 62 I have bought another.
A: It's good to hear from you.
Unfortunately my wife isn't a biker - she fidgets! The longest ride I can take with her on the pillion is a maximum of an hour.
I have spoken to several riders who had "upgraded" to the ST1300 - and each had the same response - "I wish I hadn't!"
I think this is one of those cases where a company made "progress for progress' sake".
From: S.S., Hungary
Q: Hello, I lost your email during trasfering to new MS office...
I will send you a photo of my ST 1100. I had the first ride few days ago...
I realized that my bike wobbles above 140-150 km/h just like described in reviews.
Do you know the remedy for this? I heard new front tyre and steering bearing replacement by a conical type bearing should help it.
A: A photo would be good!
Yes, it's advisable to replace the steering head bearings with taper roller ones.
It shouldn't wobble at that speed (mine doesn't), so it could either be the steering head bearings are worn, or the front tyre is incorrectly balanced. Something different which is supposed to cure an unbalanced tyre is "dyna beads". Basically they keep the tyre in balance no matter what speed you're doing. The website is www.dynabeads.co.uk so have a look. Unfortunately my front tyre has a plug (because of a puncture) so I can't install them on my bike until I fit new tyres - but I've already bought some!
From: J.S., Czechoslovakia
Q: Dear Friends,
we would like to buy tyres for our go karts (new go kart track in Pilsen). Could you be so kind and send me phone number and right direct mail address to discusse details?
A: Thanks for your message. Unfortunately I'm not a tyre dealer, my website is concerning the ST1100 motorcycle.
From: D.L., UK
Q: Just found your web page...good stuff!
I wondered if I could ask you a question? My 'N' Reg Pan's clutch when warm goes very 'slack', the lever is held right up to the grip to just about disengage the drive...only started yesterday, maneged to get back home from a 1hr 40 min ride out. Do you think it's a fluid problem or the clutch that has finnally died? If so time to sell as I believe clutch repairs arn't cheep:(
Hope you don't mind me asking.
A: Thanks for your message. I haven't heard of the clutch misbehaving like you describe, but there's always a first time!
Do you change your own engine oil? If so, the last time you changed it did you notice any debris in the old oil (fibres etc.)? That could be an indication that the clutch plates are wearing.
More common to police bikes (they use the clutch a lot!) is when clutch "swell" occurs. Basically the clutch plate unit expands due to wear. As it heats up, it expands even more, and the end result is an increase in clutch travel because you have to move a lot more fluid to disengage the clutch. I'm afraid if this is the case you have no option but to fit a new clutch.
Something else that could contribute to this problem is worn clutch plate springs. However, this would tend to be evident throughout all temperature ranges, and you've said that the problem only seems to occur when the bike gets warm.
I'm wondering if your clutch hose (the pipe between the master and slave cylinders) isn't expanding due to the heat. They're made of a rubber type material which can deteriorate after a while. The expansion of this pipe would also affect clutch travel. But if it were the fluid pipe heating up and expanding, this would qualify as a design error and all STs would have this problem. Have a look at the hose whilst you operate the clutch to see if you can spot any "bulging". You can get an aftermarket braided hose for around the same price as the genuine part.
The first thing I would do - if you haven't already done this - is to thoroughly flush and bleed the hydraulics. Old clutch fluid, or fluid contaminated with water, can cause all kinds of problems.
There could also be an internal seal leak in either the master or slave cylinder. An internal leak in the master cylinder could allow fluid to flow back to the reservoir, which would slowly release the clutch.
Seal kits for rebuilding these cylinders aren't terribly expensive.
Another possibility is that your clutch pivot pin is worn. Is there a gap around the pivot pin anywhere? There shouldn't be. If it's worn, this can put added pressure on the clutch rod - so when the engine is hot, so is the fluid, and the whole thing is pushing the clutch plates apart. The brass clutch lever pivot is a normal wear-and-tear replacement part; part 2 on the diagram http://www.st-1100.com/st1100-parts-fiche-clutch-master-cylinder-st1100s.html. If the pivot pin is worn, your clutch lever probably doesn't have any slack - it should have some.
I would start by changing the fluid and bleeding the system to see if that improves matters. Then replace or service one thing at a time - first the master cylinder, then the hose, then the slave cylinder, and finally the clutch itself.
I wouldn't personally be in too much of a hurry to get rid of the bike - after all, once the clutch has been thoroughly sorted it's very unlikely you'll ever need to touch it again!
Hope that helps!
From: D.F., USA
Q: Hello, I just bought a 93 st1100 and love it. I am thinking about taking it around the world now, or at least to South America next year.
I have several questions if I may. First the small plastic cover on the right side of the fairing coming down (the small 1-2" cover that allows eye access to the plugs from the rightside running board), came off and I lost it. Any ideas where I can get this part. Also I am still trying to find the oil filter, the drain plug, and the radiator to check its fluid. Any ideas, I figure I am going to have to take some covers off to get at any of it. Also some say to use motorcycle synthentic oil, and others say its not necessary. Any thoughts, and with sythentic will the trip last longer between changes?
Finally I would love to get an mp3 player mount with head phones and perahps speakers for camping. Any thoughts on cheap modification that doesn't go into installing a husge stereo system with speakers. Just a basic mp3 set up with head phones that could run off of, or be charged by the bike.
Thank you , I am looking forward to this bike...
A: Thanks for your message. I'm sure you'll enjoy the bike!
I'm not too sure which part you're describing, but if you have a look on this page: http://www.st-1100.com/st1100-parts-fiche-fairing-st1100p.html you may be able to spot it and get the part number. All these parts are available from the links at the bottom of this page (just click the US flag).
A decent service manual would be helpful to you for future maintenance - I mention them on this page: http://www.st-1100.com/repair-and-maintenance.html
Locations of all the maintenance bits are also given in the owners' manual, which I'm guessing didn't come with the bike!
The oil filter is on the left-hand side of the bike underneath the engine; the drain plug is on the front of the sump. If you lie down next to the bike on the left-hand side you'll see them. The oil level is checked through a viewport on the lower right side. You don't need to remove the entire belly pan to change the oil and filter, just remove the three or four left-hand screws so you can move the belly pan out of the way.
The radiator coolant tank is on the right-hand side of the bike, beneath the side panel (remove seat, then the side panel), below the rear brake fluid reservoir. (Visible through a small aperture in front ot the pannier).
As regards oil, more important than whether it's synthetic or mineral is regular oil changes (every 8,000 miles). I change the filter at the same time. Refilling can be a bit tricky - have a look at this page: http://www.st-1100.com/oil.html
(I personally use a multigrade synthetic oil.)
Finally, regarding mp3 players, you can read about the method I used on this page: http://www.st-1100.com/audio.html
From: M.M., Ireland
Q: Hi, I have a 99 ST1100 abs with a problem I cannot resolve.
The abs lights stay on when I am driving. I have carried out the self diagnosis check by holding the ABS switch down and turning on the ignition but I am not getting any fault codes. I have replaced the ABS ECU and this has not fixed the problem. When I do carry out the diagnostic check the ABS lights extinguish immediately and never come back on until I release the ABS switch. Occasionally when I perform the diagnostic check the abs flashes very slowly indefinately (no quick flashes at all)
I really need direction here if possible.
A: Thanks for your email.
Normally if the ABS light stays on, it's an indication of low voltage. This is more common in the older ST1100's (pre-1996) which have the smaller alternator.
Other causes include poor electrical connections (it's worth pulling off the electrical contacts and giving them a squirt of WD-40 - do the switch terminal connections as well) or a dying battery. (It may be worth checking the battery with a multimeter to see its condition.)
The fact that the ABS light is on indicates that the ABS system is not working - but the good news is your brakes will still work!
As you have replaced the ECU this can be ruled out as the source of the problem; also the lack of any error codes seems to indicate the problem could actually be one of the sensors. I would suspect the rear one first; it's in a somewhat exposed position and tends to get neglected a bit. It could just be down to an air gap which is too large.
If you've done the above and the light is still on, I'm afraid there's no option but to take it to a dealer.
From: P.B., USA
Q: Having problems w/cooling fan not activating. ThermoSensor replaced, no luck. Runs hot in town, medium cool on road @ 75 -80mph. Help!
A: Thanks for your note.
If the fan isn't working, the engine would certainly run hot at lower speeds. At motorway speeds the airflow through the radiator actually eliminates the need for a fan completely. But I'd be reluctant to ride the bike until the problem is sorted; running an engine with high temperatures is not recommended!
Things I would check are as follows:
1. Is the fuse all right? If the cooling fan circuit fuse is blown, I would check the fan wiring to see if there is a short circuit anywhere which has caused the fuse to melt.
2. If the fuse is ok, undo the wire from the fan switch on the left-hand side of the radiator. Using a short length of electrical wire, connect the wire which you've taken off to an earth (ground). The fan should come on. If it does, your switch is faulty and needs to be replaced.
3. If the fan does NOT come on, then test the fan by connecting a wire between the battery positive and the black/blue fan wire, and another wire between the fan body and the battery negative. If the fan still doesn't come on, the fan is faulty and needs to be replaced.
4. If the fan works but starts up at the wrong temperature, this again points to a faulty switch (and to save messing about I would just obtain a new switch).
From: K.A., UK
Q: Hi, Fascinating site with so much info.
I am interested in your additional fuse box arrangement.
1) What cable did you use for the connection to the relay?
2) What size was the relay? (amps)
3) Any useful hints when it comes to putting it all together so you don't melt the pride and joy, fingers etc?
4) The Stebel did it need bigger cabling to take the power it needs?
Many thanks for your great site info which has been of massive help.
A: Thanks for your message - glad you've found the site helpful!
The cable I used was some I had lying around (used to belong to a pair of old jumper leads). I think it was equivalent to 8.5mm squared cross-section i.e. around 63 Amp capacity. The relay itself was a normal 40A relay, as I figured I would not be using anything drawing more than a total of 30A.
Disconnect the battery first before installing anything electrical; take your time and check everything twice is my motto!
As for the Stebel, I used ordinary thinwall cable rated at 25A (the Stebel is supposed to draw a maximum of 18A). You can't use the existing horn wiring to power the Stebel but you can use it to power the relay.
From: E.S., Canada
Q: Hi, I was wondering if you could give me some direction on what relay to purchase for the aux fuse box.
A: It's best to use a fairly highly-rated relay as far as current strength is concerned, so that the weakest point in the circuit is the fuse, as described on this page: http://www.st-1100.com/relay-wiring.html.
As far as type of relay is concerned, a simple 4-blade one should be sufficient. If you have a look at part number R4B on this page: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/642/12v-4-blade-relay something like that would do the job fine.
From: E.H., USA
Q: I broke the part of my faring that covers my right mirror. Do you have any ideas where I can buy one of these? My '95 ST is Honda red. Thanks.
A: You can find the part number and/or purchase this item from here.